Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Salem by Day: 24 Hours in Salem, MA.

It's that time again. It's time to speed to another US destination and see as much as humanly possible in the shortest space of time. From the lovely Los Angeles we take a rather large leap over to the East Coast and the little town of Salem in Massachusettes. (Originally Published 4/6/13 on rantsofabitternortherner. Given a new home July 2013.)

You may have guessed it but we had one day in Salem and one day we were going to make the most of. It was the Saturday before Halloween and who knew what supernatural forces would be at work as we visited one of the most famous sites of the Witch trials and what feels like the mecca of all things Halloween.

At this point I do have to state that Autumn time (The Fall) is an amazing time to visit the East Coast in general, especially any or all of New England. Soaking in those fiery trees with their crimson, orange and yellow leaves is spectacular and of course October is host to my personal favourite holiday of the year (not that it's even a holiday) Halloween. For years it's been my dream to be in the States for All Hallows Eve and this year I got my wish.  

So, to make the most of our 24 hours in Salem, we took the red eye to Boston, hired a car and drove the mere 45 minutes to Salem, arriving at approximately 7am.




So at 7am, there isn't much going on but the parking is open and so are a few places for breakfast. We chose the cosy Taste of Thyme on Washington Street and thought it would be rude not to have pancakes. They were delicious. (NB: Taste of Thyme may or may not have changed to Medusa's Cafe by now.)


Feeling suitably fed, watered and warmed up we found a few things to do before everything opened and the bustle of Halloween weekend descended. It was kind of fun to see it deserted and then feel the vibe changing during the day as it filled with more people and the party atmosphere took over.

Salem is easily walkable and has a few little districts each with their own special feel and attractions. We headed off first to the Mcintire District which is a short walking tour of Sea Captains' homes and some of the oldest buildings in Salem. Many have been reconstructed or moved but this area retains a certain New England charm that definitely looks beautiful in the early morning sunshine. It's so picturesque and wonderfully quiet, yet only a stones throw from the insanity of the centre.








Heading back into the centre, check out the visitor's centre, interesting window displays and cool shop signs.







Haunted Happenings is the official Salem Halloween site (hauntedhappenings.org) and lists a whole month of activities throughout October. Events start being posted from August but there is always information on there all year round, so check it out before a visit, they have so much going on and not just in the few days surrounding Halloween. But the whole month! They really go all out. Man I wished I lived closer.

While the shops and museums were still waking up we wandered over to the Maritime district and Salem Harbour. There's plenty to see.





The Salem Maritime National Historic Site can be visited in daily one hour tours and include Derby House, Custom House, and Friendship, the cargo vessel in Derby Wharf. We didn't bother with a tour just took some nice pictures (speed tourism) and then headed over to The House of Seven Gables which is a hugely famous site in Salem's history and American Literary history. Not only is it the oldest remaining wooden mansion in New England but it was also the stimulus for Nathanial Hawthorne's novel of the same name. You can get tours of the house which is actually really cool and there are secret staircases and a few surprises. There is of course a shop and a few other buildings to look around on site. 




If you have a sweet tooth why not swing by Ye Olde Pepper Companie for traditional sweets and confectionery, or in our case a really sticky cherry thing which exploded everywhere and left me sticking to stuff for ages. Yummy though! You may have to queue to get in. As with a lot of places in Salem, there are lots of people trying to get into a small place. 

We caught our first glimpse of The Hawthorn Hotel, which would be the setting for our ball later and is lush!


More on Hawthorn Hotel in the next blog: Salem by Night, chronicling the wonder of a Salem Halloween Ball.

Now, back to the centre of town. As you're walking around make sure you look out for some tip top decs (decorations). Some of the houses go all out and even some of the biking locals like to bring a certain brum brum to the festivities.




Attractions in the centre include The Salem Witch Museum; Peabody Essex Museum; The Old Town Hall; The Market and Essex Street Mall. Then of course there is the Old Burial Point Cemetery and The Witch Trials Memorial. Both absolute must sees. The Salem Witch Museum gets very busy so I suggest you go early and resign yourself to join the queue but also to expect not to make a tour until a while after you buy your tickets. We bought one for two hours in advance allowing us to comfortably wander around some more and get lunch too. There are two parts to the tour and they basically involve listening so it's not too strenuous and I guess part of the whole atmosphere. It's definitely worth the trip whilst you're there. 


In keeping with the Holiday spirit there was also a funfair on Salem Common, with rides and food and all things fun fun fun. Opting for a bit of quiet contemplation, we headed for The Burying Point. 





There's something so beautiful about these thin straight backed grave stones. It looks peaceful but when you turn the other way you are faced with people already dressed up and ready to party. I've honestly never seen so much colour and felt so much energy in a graveyard. 


The Witches Memorial should have been a beautifully haunting sight but actually upset me because of the way it was being used. People were sat on the stone slabs marking each of the accused and subsequently murdered innocents. And some people had left rubbish on them and all sorts. Someone had however left a flower. Thank you to that person.




Then we had enough time to head to the market and the main Essex street mall. (There is also a cinema in here.) Yes there are lots of kitschy shops (or tacky as we would say in Britain), but there is also lots of original art work, performers, home made treats and interesting souvenirs. Besides, sometimes, you've just gotta milk it. If your town is famous for witches, then bring out the witches! And it's such a breath of fresh air from towns that are all chains.






Salem is fantastic and yes I went at the most explosive time for them in terms of tourism and craziness, but most of the attractions are open all year round and can be visited and enjoyed any time. So if you happen to be holidaying in Boston, it's such a short and easy drive. It is also a great stop off on your way to other places such as Maine and other states in New England. You could easily make a weekend out of it if you had time but as a stop off for a day it is perfect. Lots to keep you busy. Plenty of inside things in case the weather isn't great and a really interesting little place. 

When I return it will be Salem by Night. Beware the Halloween Ball. The Goblins and Ghoulies are up to no good! But the party atmosphere is cranking and the costumes are immense!

The Sarky Traveller

P.S We love you Salem Massachusettes. (And I love writing the word Massachusettes....How many s's? How many t's. Love it!)