Maine to New Hampshire: Day 3 of The New England Road Trip.

It's Day 3 of The New England Road Trip and the morning after Hurricane Sandy hit.........
Waking in Bar Harbor after a huge storm could be cause for concern but with a breakfast like this to wake up to, you can cope with anything.

We had poached pears, juice, coffee and those famous Maine blueberry pancakes. My word you get a decent breakfast in these parts. www.graycoteinn.com

We had received an email early in the morning from our next accommodation in New Hampshire. Sadly they had a tree down in the car park and as we were the only guests that night they thought we should relocate. They very helpfully found us a new place to stay and despite it being more expensive, promised us the same rate. Really big help and meant we didn't have to panic later. So a huge thanks to Sally and Dick at Carter Notch Inn and hopefully one day we will get to stay with you. http://www.carternotchinn.com/

Now we were booked on a Lighthouse cruise and couldn't get hold of the company by phone. So we drove down to the port to take a look. The cruise was understandably cancelled.

 Not sure if it gives you the right perspective on just how high the sea was.................................

But this does.

To say I was glad of the cancellation was an understatement. Though it was shame as a Lighthouse cruise was one of my top things to do in New England. Ah well. Next time. (Speed Tourism...something to come back for.) Besides you always run the risk when travelling 'Out of Season'. http://www.barharborwhales.com/default.php This company do a range of cruises including The Historical Lighthouse Tour that we should have been on, which was around $50 per adult for a 3 hour cruise.

This trip to the port allowed us a brief glimpse of down town Bar Harbor in daylight. And what a delight it was. 

 So colourful despite the grey day.

Now if you don't do Acadia National Park when in Bar Harbor, then you really need to have a word with yourself. You can take the car and do a loop and you can even get a CD driving tour that explains what you are seeing (or should be seeing) at each stop off. But first it's over to the visitor's centre for park pass ($10, off season, valid for a week.) toilets, maps and exhibits. http://www.nps.gov/acad/index.htm

 Hull's Cove Visitor Centre http://www.acadiamagic.com/visitor-center.html

When 'In season' shuttle buses also run from Hull's Cove for those of you who don't want to drive it yourself and do various legs of Mount Desert Island. (I love how it sounds like they are saying dessert island. He he. If only there was a dessert island........) 

Check out the bus schedules and routes here: http://www.exploreacadia.com/

The Park Loop Road is generally operational until the end of November though if inclement weather is expected it may be closed sooner. The Road is then re-opened in April or May, which just goes to show the severity of the surrounding sea and that brutal beauty that dominates the Maine coast line. Hull's Cove Visitor Centre itself is closed November to April so we were lucky to catch it in it's last few days of operation. If you are travelling in Winter you can visit Park Headquarters which is open year round, though limited hours, and is just a few miles from Bar Harbor. http://www.acadiamagic.com/ParkHeadquarters.html

There are also a very famous collection of carriage roads, not for motor vehicles - throughout the park - which can be accessed from Hull's Cove. Again these are open from April/May to October/November and encompass many beautiful stone bridges too. http://www.acadiamagic.com/carriage-roads.htm Check it out if time, weather, health and season are on your side. I would. Freakin' love bridges.

Anyhoo. Armed with your driving tour CD, it's time to take to the road.

 This is what we should have seen.

This is what we could see.

A huge highlight for us was Sand Beach. We stayed for quite some time watching the crazy waves beating on the beach. You can just imagine what it's like in Summer but I enjoyed the wild severity of the raging water. It felt like that was right way to see it; the way Maine intended you to experience it. 

At Thunder Hole we were treated to around 5 minutes of sunshine and ridiculously high waves. I kept a very sensible distance, being terrified of deep water and all.

Yes those are steps in the distance and viewing platforms, completely under water. Terrifying.

            It just felt like any minute the water would be on the road and we'd be trying to out run it.

Continuing along the one way Park Road Loop we crossed Otter Cove and headed towards Wildwood Stables and Jordon Pond House. Both were closed for the season (though we only missed it by one day.) and Jordon Pond House was the only eating establishment on the island, so take some snacks with you or a picnic. That was our slight downfall.

 Cresting Otter Cove and wondering if the sea will catch us.

 Wildwood Stables offer carriage rides throughout June to October. There are various options to choose from and different lengths of time. It is highly suggested to book in advance. For more information check out:
http://www.acadiamagic.com/wildwood-stables.html

This is the gatehouse at Jordon Pond. On the other side of the road is Jordon Pond House. Now if you make it to Acadia before October 27th you can enjoy some yummy food and a welcoming atmosphere.
http://www.thejordanpondhouse.com/ And if the weather is lovely you can take a few hikes around Jordon Pond  to see what natural treasures you can find.

Back in the car and a brief stop off at Bubble Pond for a beautiful stone bridge and little water fall. 

Then with the weather closing in on us it was straight up to Cadillac Mountain which at times was perilous. We pulled over at least once as the rain was bucketing down so hard we could barely see a foot in front of us. And needless to say we didn't get any sort of view from up there. But we did conquer the Cadillac and we thoroughly enjoyed our trip to Acadia.

 Into the gloom of Cadillac Mountain.

What a fantastic morning. You might think we missed out some, having such low clouds and little views but seeing this wild and ferocious landscape behaving wild and ferociously was worth every minute. Thank you Acadia. Maybe we'll be back one day to do more.

Lunch time and a little detour to Ellsworth (ME) and a guide-suggested eatery: Cleonice Mediterranean Bistro. www.cleonice.com The rain was so hard at this point we were soaked through just walking 50 metres from the car but inside awaited a warm welcome and some jolly good food.

                                  Mmmmmmm Chicken Souvlaki with herby potatoes and Tzatiki.
Lovely staff, great food, great prices, warmth and nourishment. What more could you want on a grey day?

We were slowly making our way to Jackson (NH) but still had a few detours to make, one of which being Bangor for Stephen King's house. Both my partner and I are big Stephen King fans so just driving past his Spidery gates really boosted our afternoon spirits through the cold and wet. It was one of those days when you could easily imagine why a lot of his stories are set on the East Coast.

We were running out of daylight and time but somehow made it to Augusta, the capital of Maine, (I love how each state has a Capital and State House. It's all very exciting.) just before the State House was due to close. The lovely guards there gave us five minutes and even told us where to take the lift to see inside the dome. Now this really was speed tourism. 5 minutes is all you've got....Go!

 Augusta State House. Augusta (ME)

 Looking up into the dome. Pretty.

Outside after our whirlwind tour.

I'd just like to say, bless them for letting us in with only five minutes to go. I even managed to see the hall of flags and use the toilet. So that was a well used five minutes. Want to know more about Augusta? Check out their website. http://www.augustamaine.gov/ If you have more than five minutes there you might also want to learn more about Maine and it's history. http://mainestatemuseum.org/home/

What you probably won't find out until you go and see for yourself, is that outside the State House in Augusta are lots of fungi that look like ice lollies. True story.

Time allowed us a brief stroll along the Kennebec river in down town Augusta but with the rain finally stopping it was very pleasant.

America seems to hold the biggest collection of independent book stores. I love it! In Britain they're a dying breed but over here they seem to boom. Books, books for everyone.


Now the relatively short drive, but sadly all in the dark, was for our final stop of the night: Jackson, New Hampshire and our accommodation: The Christmas Farm Inn and Spa. http://christmasfarminn.com/en/

Crossing our first of the famous Jackson covered bridges.

 Communal area in The Carriage House

 Our accommodation at The Carriage House.

Time for dinner. We got in there an hour or so before the last sitting, which was good. They have a special in the restaurant every night, which usually consists three courses for a very reasonable price. (Around $18.00) When we went it was salad with a choice of vinaigrette's followed by a turkey dinner and an apple bread pudding. Plus they had a great cocktail selection and lots of locally brewed beers. Lovely service from the waitresses who were very interested to hear what we'd been up to. Slightly weird to see Santa in the corner when it was only October but here it's Christmas all year round. 

Next time we speed tourist the fuck out of New Hampshire and find lots of waterfalls. Plus we eat a massive breakfast. All that and more to look forward to in the next Sarky Traveller post. 

The Sarky Traveller

Mainely Maine: Taking in Camden, Rockport, Belfast and Bar Harbor. Day 2 of The New England Road Trip.

After a delightful sleep in The Harstone Inn (Camden ME) it was time for breakfast and boy do they know how to serve up a decent breakfast. www.hartstoneinn.com

Cold rice pudding with fresh fruit. Yes I was sceptical too but it was delicious! Juices, coffee and tea were offered and then the final act: Blueberry pancakes made with wild Maine Blueberries and cumin infused bacon.

Wow!

 Now usually I'm a fruit and meat no no. I find it wrong to mix sweet and savoury but they slipped down very nicely. Really top notch food and lodging I'm just sorry we only had one night there. But in the name of speed tourism you really can't hang around in one place too long, not if you're going to explore as many places as possible and so it was time to see what Camden and the local area had in store for us.

 Looking up and down Camden's cute high street. Lots of interesting shops, cafes and restaurants.

I have to mention the amazing shop I visited that I wanted to buy everything in and that was: Once A Tree.
The vast majority of the shop was home ware and gifts made by the talented people of Maine. The staff in there were lovely and as we were their first customers of the day (people staying away due to storm and slightly out of season) they were more than pleased with our many purchases. Not sure if the ladies working there will remember the two random Brits in on that day in late October 2012 but I give you a shout out anyway.

Now look how pretty these stripey chopping boards are. We bought one of the small ones but we use it as a presentation board because we don't want to damage it. Honestly if I was rich I would have bought so much more and then had to buy an additional suitcase to bring it all back in. Delightful shop and truly wonderful Maine people. http://www.onceatree.net/ Check out the website and if you are in the area definitely go in, your wallet will inevitably come out lighter. Oh and it's their 30th Birthday this year, just like mine, so happy 30th Once A Tree!

Some of the shops and businesses were closed, either due to storm warnings, out of season or the earliness at which we rose but Camden has plenty to offer and you can check out more retail opportunities at:
www.camdenmaineexperience.com This site has details of places to stay - if the Hartstone is out of your budget or full - and eat and visit. You may also be interested to know that The Camden Snow Bowl hosted the US Toboggan Championships earlier in the year and in Summer they have a public beach. http://www.camdensnowbowl.com/ For all things hiking, biking, sailing and skiing, check it out whether your trip is in summer or winter. There will always be something happening and they also have public chair lifts. Makes me really want to go back now. You see, speed tourism, always leaving more to go back to.

Once we'd done Main Street we wandered through Harbor Park. This beautiful parkland right on the edge of the Harbour also takes in the place where the Megunticook River meets the sea.

 Looking out from Harbor Park over Camden Harbor.

Harbor Park

Where the river meets the sea.

Camden Public Library

Something you shouldn't miss when in Camden is Camden Hills State Park with spectacular views (weather depending) from Mount Battie 790ft up. If you have a lot of time then of course walk to the park and then walk up Mount Battie. We took the car and in the end took the car up Mount Battie as the weather was closing in and we weren't really kitted out for an hours hike. It costs around $5 for entrance to the park but I seem to remember there being a discount or something for local residents.

 The drive up to Mount Battie.

 The War Memorial honouring those that fought in the First World War.

 Mount Battie's Peak, hidden beneath the clouds.

 Once up at the top, you are treated to spectacular views over down town Camden and that wonderfully rugged Maine coastline.

Just look at that. This is Maine in the fall. Mesmerising.

The park doesn't have it's own website but there are links on the Camden Maine Experience site and also links on http://www.maine.gov/portal/index.html through outdoor recreation.

Winding back down with the car there are various car parks with short trails leading off them. We decided to immerse ourselves in the foliage of New England and to find some of those world renowned autumnal colours. The trails are well laid out and often have wooden decking underfoot in places highly prone to water logging. Look out for interesting fungi.

Sadly that was all we had time for in Camden Hills State Park but next time we'll definitely hike up Mount Battie and maybe with the sun shining? We took the car back through Camden heading South towards Beauchamp Point in Camden's neighbouring town of Rockport. It's a wonderfully scenic drive with all the foliage and ocean views you could possibly want. You'll also pass by the famous Aldermere farm with its Belted Galloway Cows. There are lots of places to pull over and admire and photograph what feels like a hidden place, so quiet and serene, though this can't be guaranteed depending on when you visit. Go at the end of October and you practically have the place to yourself. It's also a great place to drool over houses and as you head up the other side of the peninsula you are treated to views of Rockport Harbor. (I'm really trying with the US spelling. It's hard though.)

 Looking towards Rockport

 Looking out to sea.

Making friends with the locals.

If you want to find out more about mid coast Maine and some of it's hidden treasures, hear it from a local:

http://treasuresofmidcoastmaine.wordpress.com/2012/10/01/beauchamp-point-rockport-me/ Also lodgings, eateries and businesses in the Rockport area are listed on the visit Maine site:
 http://www.visitmaine.com/region/midcoast/camden_rockport_lincolnville/

We managed a short walk around Rockport Harbor and took in the Rockport Lime Kilns before heading back to the car for the next adventure.

Camden and Rockport had such character and beauty, if you have the opportunity to stay here a few days I would take it. Nearby Rockland a few miles South of Rockport is also worth a visit if you have the time. The Maine lighthouse museum, transportation museum and festivals such as the Maine Lobster Festival and The North Atlantic Blues Festival provide a steady stream of tourists here. Of course there are also many light house tours, boat trips and ferries though most, if not all of these had stopped running by the time we were there. Below are just a few sites dedicated to boat tours and exploring the coastline.

http://www.nelights.com/exploring/Maine/maine_rockland_lighthouses.html

http://www.amorninginmaine.com/

http://www.sailrockland.com/


So after the delights of Camden and Rockport, we continued North to Belfast on Route 1. As soon as you take the turning for Downtown Belfast you instantly get the feeling you are in a larger town. Large houses stand up in tree lined streets leading you to the centre. There is a hospital here serving the Waldo County Area, a Municipal Airport and the Sheriff's Department. This charming town was given about a paragraph in the guide book we had and so we didn't really know what to expect. Trust me when I say, I'll be using much more than a paragraph.

On the front of the free map we were given in the first shop we went in - a book shop name Bella Books - it says 'Discover why people say "We love Belfast".' Okay then Belfast show us what you've got. http://www.cityofbelfast.org/

Bella Books on the corner on High Street is a beautiful independent book store full of books in every genre, lots of children's books and antique furniture. It's very quirky and also has a yearly membership which entitles the member to free cookies. I mean, what more could you want from a book store? Really friendly staff, happy to help with directions and suggestions on places to eat in town, as well as of course a wealthy knowledge of the latest books right down to the classics. I was fascinated by all the YA novels with completely different cover art from the British versions. It was really interesting to see and consider why?

I really enjoyed how the antiques were incorporated in the book displays and vice versa. It created a very cosy atmosphere and felt like a well lived in house, where you could just squeeze into an armchair and lose yourself in a book. With places like this in the world I don't know how people would actively choose not to read. I wish I could zap you over to London but then you would never get rid of me. Bella Books rocks!
And here is a link to their facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/bellabooksbelfast

Hmmm, lunch time in Belfast. Where to eat? There are plenty of affordable places to eat spread out along Main and High Streets as well as along the water front. We were kindly recommended  Darby's Pub and Restaurant on High Street and who are we to ignore the advice of a local.

Nice wooden booths to sit in and a very homely feel to it. The food is superb and takes in daily specials as well as traditional favourites. Wonderfully fresh fish and sea food are of course a staple of Darby's but don't be put off if you're not a sea food person. There is literally something for everyone. And their dessert list is not only extensive but so difficult to choose from. To check out a sample of the menus visit their website: www.darbysrestaurant.com and they have a gluten free menu available too.

 My special pasta dish of the day 29/10/12. Tortelloni Tricolore with tomato, chicken and asparagus. (This was also the first time I'd ever eaten asparagus. So thanks for that Darby's. Delicious.)

 This is the famous Scottish Toffee Pudding Cake which we actually shared. It's huge! But oh my, it's good.

The extensive and almost impossible to choose from, dessert menu. If you weren't a sweet tooth before, you will be. 

Darby's also has a fully stocked bar and lots of locally brewed beers. I really love that about New England, they are so into their home brews and local beers. They also have their own soda and soft drinks made locally and we tried one.

Nice to know somewhere else calls it pop! Not just Lancashire, UK.

The staff were lovely and really enjoy making conversation with out-of-towners, which is so refreshing after five years in London, where people fail to communicate on any level really. There was of course a lot of talk of the coming storm but the stoic Maine-sters were less than concerned. They've hunkered down many a time. 

After we managed to prise ourselves away from Darby's warmth and deliciousness, we embarked on a little shopping expedition. Sticking to Main Street and High Street - remembering this is speed tourism - we encountered incredibly ornate paraffin lamps, hand made wares from local artists and crafts people, the oldest shoe shop in America, a funky cheese shop and the Northern Lights Gallery. 

Of notable mention are:

www.conklinsmainemercantile.com. Beautiful home ware made in the USA. (That's on High Street). The paraffin lamps were mesmerising.

 

http://www.fiddleheadartisansupply.com/. Art supplies, wool, fabric, books, greetings cards. All in a beautiful space and so colourful. This is the craft shop of the 21st Century. 

 

http://greenstore.com/ Promoting an 'environmentally sustainable lifestyle.'

 

http://www.colburnshoe.com/. The oldest shoe store in America and darn proud of it. A wide variety of shoes for men, women, children and sport. 

 

 

 

www.eatmorecheese.me. What an awesome name for a shop and a quaint little entrance round the back of 33 Main Street. Expect artisan cheeses and the opportunity to sample as well as some cured meats and chocolate.

 

And finally: http://northernlightsgallery.org/ Every winter the owners of the gallery set sail on their own ship and head further North for an exploration of Inuit art and culture. What they bring back and the photography along the way are sold and promoted in their gallery. A great story and so interesting to be able to talk to them and find out more about their amazing trips. Again lovely people, genuinely interested in where you are from and why you are there. They also have a beautiful husky which you may want to take home with you.

Sadly we were running out of time but I will say there are many other shops and businesses in the surrounding streets of Downtown Belfast and what's more about 90%, maybe more, are independent. Refreshing and comforting to know that life isn't ruled by Starbucks and Wallmart. There is also a three screen cinema: www.colonialtheatre.com and a museum all about Belfast: www.belfastmuseum.org.

It was time for a walk along the water front, a view of the unpronounceable River: Passagassawaukeag and a stroll along it's pedestrian bridge.

 A Bridge over high but calm waters.

 Still can't say it but there is a handy guide to the pronunciation.

 Heading to East Belfast on the pedestrian bridge over the Passagassawaukaeg River. (Actually enjoying practising writing this.)

 The view over to Marshall Wharf and Town Landing

 Heading back towards Downtown Belfast and just enough time to take in some art.

Thank you Belfast. In just a few short hours we have already fallen in love with you. I urge you to stop off at this charming town full of history, crafts and arts, great food, interesting shops and really lovely people. I have discovered why people say, "We love Belfast." Will you?

So with the storm hot on our tails it was back on Route 1, destination Bar Harbor. Though we did take a rather lengthy detour to Castine. There was only one restaurant and a cafe open. It was peeing it down and very windy so we just braved a few photos on the port, bought a cookie and drink from the cafe and headed off again. I think Castine is a cute place but probably even nicer when the weather is better and in season. 

 The Town Dock, Castine, Maine.

We arrived in Bar Harbor when it was already dark and the wind was really picking up. Graycote Inn was our lodgings for the night and the owners Roger and Pat were very thorough with an induction and welcome. They had a file full of restaurants and places to eat and drink away the storm. Very helpful and informative and only a few minutes walk from Downtown. www.greycoteinn.com

 The beautiful interior of the Greycote Inn and our room.

A restaurant was recommended to us and again we thankfully accepted this recommendation. Making decisions after a long day of speed tourism can lead to arguments, brain over load or the inability to form words. Mama di Matteo here we come. http://www.mamadimatteos.com/

Tucked away on Kennebec Place opposite the cinema, Mama di Matteo provided us with a candle lit meal of epic proportions, value for money and a touch of class. Oh yeah and loads of interesting bread.

 Half of it gone. Ooops.

My incredible main course: Fillet of Haddock in bread crumbs with vegetables and a bed of linguine.

(Imagine actually sleeping on a bed of linguine........)

Mama di Matteo's also had a cheeky little cocktail list and extensive and reasonably priced wines, as well as beer and soft drinks. Great for a romantic meal for two or a meal out with friends. The atmosphere is intimate and welcoming. Highly recommended. 

As for our final stop for the night, we headed over the road to Reel Pizza Cinerama. Yes, it's not only a two screen cinema, it's a pizzeria too. They offer take out service but you can also eat in the cinema, create your own and add your own toppings in the actual screen. Winner! http://www.reelpizza.net/index.php The bar /cafe also stock wine, tea, coffee, cake, popcorn, herbal tea, soft drinks and sweeties! 

I really miss these local cinemas. They barely exist in Britain anymore and it is so sad. But America seems to cherish them and every time we visit we manage to take in a film for a ridiculously low price and enjoy a comfortable seat, intermission (why is it so exciting to have an intermission?) and a genuinely enjoyable experience. If you're in Bar Harbor you should definitely check out the Reel Pizza Cinerama and you too could be watching from the film from the comfort of your own couch and high table. 

So, if you haven't got the gist of this blog I'll spell it out very clearly. Maine is brilliant! You should go!

There. I think that's about right. Stay tuned for more Maine, New Hampshire, wild waves, fallen trees and all year round Christmas. 

Keep Travelling. 

The Sarky Traveller