Beijing Itinerary Day 2

Hello travellers. Sorry for the lengthy hiatus, there's been lots going on at Sarky headquarters - sadly not much on the travelling front -  but I always find my way back eventually.

So, it's day 2 in Beijing and it's time to see the sights. Depending on the nature of your accommodation, you may have breakfast included or you may need to fend for yourselves. We were of the latter condition but our wonderful hostel had a small cafe downstairs where you could get a hot drink and a pastry for 15RMB (£1.50). It did mean I was having hot chocolate for breakfast but hey, holiday rules apply.

We headed off to the subway to practice our assertiveness (elbowing) technique. Like I mentioned in the previous blogs, signs are in English and Chinese so navigating around the underground network is pretty straightforward. Most of the guide books also have a subway map, so it's easy to plan your route. If changing lines, expect to be walking for quite some time and don't panic, just follow the crowds.

Today was all about Tiananmen Square, which is impossible to actually write properly on an English keyboard - there are accents everywhere - so I went for the English spelling instead. From our location it was easier to exit the subway at Tiananmen West which somewhat conveniently, leads you out through the NCPA - The National Centre for Performing Arts. It would be rude not to take a look around the building they affectionately refer to as 'The Space Egg'.

You can pay a small fee to enter - at the time we went, November 2014 it stood at 30RMB (£3) - and just look around the building, the main theatre and the exhibition rooms. As with anywhere in China, there is the inevitable security check: metal detectors, bag searches, oh and they are really funny about bottles of water. If they keep saying 'Water' or pointing at it and pointing at you, they basically want you to drink some to make sure it's not something dangerous. I did not realise this and couldn't understand why they kept pointing at me. Anyhoo, now you know.

The entrance is quite spectacular in that it is underwater, the lake that surrounds the NCPA shimmering over the top of the glass ceiling. And with the sunshine filtering through it was quite magical. They had a lovely Opera exhibition, again with lots of English translations, which chartered the copious amounts of Western and home grown Opera performed within the centre. There were costumes, props, sketches and set designs from each of the productions. 

 English and Chinese titles of the Opera's performed here.

Costumes from one of the specially written, Chinese Operas.

You can enter the main theatre, with it's impressive elliptical shape and ginormous stage. With red seats and little lights everywhere, it's a beautiful setting for a night at the Opera. It was one of those tempting moments, when you want to just haul yourself onto the stage and run around like a mad person. I didn't. There were guards. 

I love that the oval/elliptical shape is a feature throughout everything in the building, from cafes and stairwells, to sculptures and seating. It really is a magnificent sight and if you have time there are countless other exhibitions around the building. Of course, operating on speed tourism, we had a limited time and it was about time to move on. For more information on the centre, the shows and exhibitions, check out the website: http://www.chncpa.org/ens/

The view to the lake outside.

Once you exit, take a little stroll around the lake to see the building live up to its nickname:

'The Space Egg'

A short walk from here - follow the crowds, you won't get lost - and you start to realise you are in the middle of something, that this is where the people congregate, like there's some sort of gravitational pull acting on the area. The roads are flanked by white fences and the only crossing points are via pedestrian tunnels under the roads. Guards pepper the streets, every few metres and there are bag searches and ID checks on the lead up to the square as well as within the square itself. It is the largest public square in the world and pretty overwhelming. 

These views were taken from the Tiananmen Gate, or Gate of Heavenly Peace, which overlooks the square with it's portrait of Chairman Mao. The building you can see in the middle of the picture marks the half way point of the square. Yes, it really is that big. Just try and imagine 1,000,000 people forming up for the Chairman. Wow!

After a brief wander in the square, being cut in two by the rather brisk wind, we opted for the Tiananmen gate, which would provide us a bit of shelter and give us a much better view of the area. We had to cross under the road and undertake at least two more security checks, but then once we had queued for tickets and bag drop, we were in. (N.B. You have to drop bags off, even the smallest handbags. A camera is fine around your neck and as long as you have pockets, you can shove a phone and passport/ID in there and you'll be fine. There is also a time limit on the bag drop and thus a time limit on your visit. But for the life of me I can't remember what it was. But it was more than long enough to visit.)

 Tiananmen Gate

You get great views over the square and surrounding areas, and the lanterns are incredible. The exhibits inside the gate are only in Chinese but there are some videos to watch. Photographs are forbidden inside the gate, though most of the Chinese were standing outside and taking pictures from there. Nice to know they break the rules too. Cheeky.

As it was heading close to lunchtime, we crossed the road again, becoming experts at the old security check, and joined the queue for The National Museum of China. Ee, it's a big bugger.

This is just the entrance way.

The museum is free, you just have to show ID to get a ticket. Now Chinese nationals can use the handy ATM style machines to obtain their tickets, but most other nationalities have to go to the little window and show their passports to get a ticket. After our already busy morning and lots of queuing, it was more than time for lunch. We headed for the museum cafe on the ground floor, which had sadly run out of sandwiches. We opted for a Chinese Pastry - menu translated in English too - not knowing what it would be like. Well, it's kind of like this:

 A steamed sponge cake with a cream filling. Yummy, but not quite what we intended for lunch.

The enormity of this museum is difficult to express. We were told that the Ancient China exhibit in the basement was the absolute must see, but of course, if you have loads of time and can devote half a day or even a full day, then you will see and experience so much more. Being on a speed tourism schedule we took the recommendation and visited Ancient China. To check out the enormity of the collection and see what's on when you are there, visit the website: en.chnmuseum.cn/‎

 Look at the tiny people. No, wait, they are normal sized people, it's the building that's freakin' huge!

This water clock was a favourite of mine. Time is an important element for the Chinese, which we saw through countless exhibits and artifacts during our travels.

After the museum we braved the crowds back in Tainanmen Square and walked the length and  breadth of the colossal space. Prepare to have your picture taken with random people, especially if you are Western and also prepare to shoo away the copious amounts of art students and photographers that are essentially wanting you to spend money. Some of them might even ask you to leave with them and attend a tea ceremony or go and see some of their art. Please have the sense to say no and realise they will try to rip you off and also that you are wandering off with strangers. Come on, stranger danger, your mum must have taught you about that.

So, whilst fending off all the additional attention, you might see some of this:

 "I'm in a wide open space."

 The Zhengyangmen Gatehouse, or South Gate.

Once you have wandered and strolled to your hearts content, then you can exit the square via the South Gate and passing through the Archery Tower you will find yourself in The Temple of Heaven Park. Now, a quick note to all. Get there well before 4pm, as that is the last opportunity to buy a ticket to access the Temple of Heaven and other famous sites and important buildings within the park. Also, when you visit any park in China, there is likely to be a small fee to enter the park, then separate fees for individual events or sights, and then finally a through ticket, which is normally all of the sights for a cheaper combined price. I suggest this for The Temple of Heaven Park, but like I said get there probably by 3pm at the latest, so they will still sell a through ticket.  More information here: http://www.tiantanpark.com/cn/

 Through South Gate and heading to the Archery Tower.

We arrived about 3.45 and were refused a through ticket. We were told we could buy tickets at the Temple and never thought anything of it, as everything was supposedly open till 5pm. When we reached the Temple box office, they had shut literally 3.58pm and there were several slightly annoyed people who then couldn't visit anything they wanted to. But, despite not being able to go in anywhere, the park was so incredibly beautiful that we soon got over it.

 The Temple of Heaven peeping out above the Long Corridor.

What you will notice about not only this park, but many parks in Beijing, is the sense of community. There are people out in groups singing, there are people playing games with there own fold away tables and chairs, and this happens all over. People stay to watch, people just get up and join in. It's bizarre but wonderful to see. 

A singing group.

 A bit of gambling.

Now this park I remember for another reason, it was the first time I used a squatty toilet. The horror!
Okay, so I am not great with the hole in the floor toilets and in Japan 2011 I managed to avoid them by using disabled toilets and just being really lucky. It soon became clear that I wouldn't be so lucky in China. They are great with their quantity of public toilets but I think it will be a shock for most Westerners. Take your own toilet roll as mostly they are empty of this and just brave the squat. I promise you'll get used to it and stop feeling so grossed out by it.

We were booked in at The Red Theatre to see a Kungfu show later, so we headed in the general direction with the thoughts of some yummy food first.

Looking back on The Temple of Heaven Park.

Looking around for somewhere to eat can be a little daunting, especially when not in a tourist area, or just being a little off the beaten track. But if you are a tad petrified every meal time, such as myself, look for places that have pictures up. If there are pictures up then at least you can point at something, especially as some restaurants will literally have no menu, or a menu of Chinese characters and it is nigh on impossible to decipher. We chose well, and had some incredible food, for ridiculously cheap and we were also congratulated on our chopstick use. There were about four members of staff watching us at one point. I almost felt the pressure but managed to keep composed and we were given a round of applause. 

 Pork and spring onions and beef and potatoes, with rice. So bloody tasty!

 And this was where we ate, an unassuming place, without bells and whistles but with amazing food and rather sweet service, when you consider the complete lack of understanding from either side. I couldn't even find it on google maps but it is literally opposite the Red Theatre along Xingfu Street. 

Oh and rather unexpectedly they had beautiful colour menus with lots of pictures in, so there was a huge choice of dishes! Check it out if you're in that area, it's amazing!

Crossing the road, we found The Red Theatre, rather aptly named.

It is a draughty place, not fully enclosed so take a jacket no matter what season you go in. The Kungfu show is predominantly for tourists and may seem a bit cheesy, but there are a heck of a lot of Chinese tourists as well, and it's a fun way to bask in some Chinese culture. I won't spoil the show for you, I think that's definitely something to be experienced yourselves, though I will tell you there is a hugely hilarious lip syncing thing all the way through, but that somehow makes it better. You can book tickets at the official site: http://www.redtheatre.cn/

At the end of the show there are opportunities to take photographs of the cast on the stage, and you can even pay for people to go on stage and be in the photographs. There is a cute shop where you can buy refreshments and souvenirs and they plug the DVD a lot! But all in all it was a great night, especially when you've been walking the streets of Beijing all day and your brain is a tad fried. Oh, and a heads up to the ladies, there are only squatty toilets here. I met an English woman in there who refused to go and said she would wait till she got back to the hotel. I could not.

It was quite a walk to the nearest subway station but we enjoyed the night time stroll and took the subway back to Dongsi and our accommodation. A long day but some awesome sights seen already.

Join me next time for Day 3 of the Beijing Itinerary, with towers, temples and more parks. Until then, keep travelling.

The Sarky Traveller