Hollywood
A name synonymous with film stars, glitz, glamour and of course The Oscars. Hollywood was actually not what I expected at all. I guess part of me had a romantic notion of what it would look like and that was thrashed through after around 30 seconds. It's seedy, in parts slightly run down (though they are doing it up) and kind of dark, though not in a lack of light way. But all this adds to it's sort of blind charm. No it's not like stepping into a Marilyn Monroe movie set. No there aren't celebs on every corner and you might want to keep tabs on your hand bag (purse) but it adds yet another dimension to this multi faceted city!
The stars are a highlight for me: The Walk of Fame. I honestly think I would have been happy just wandering the star lanes all day. Most of the time I had my head down, shouting out another famous name I'd just encountered. Geek, I know! But it was sort of fun to think that most of these people had walked these streets at one time or another. And it's not just movie stars, there are bands, musicians, singers, astronauts and composers. Every time I found a British representative I was very proud.
Stars, The Pentages Theatre and annoying tour guides.
Now, as you begin your walk along Hollywood Boulevard, just think of how cool the word Boulevard is. Honestly, I swear we don't have them in Britain. We're not cool enough to pull them off. Close, Avenue, Street, Road. They're all doable, but Piccadilly Boulevard....nah! It just doesn't work.
Anyhoo, as I was saying, beware of the tour guides. They provide driving tours of Hollywood, Sunset Strip and take you round to stars homes. If you want to do this, fine, I'm not saying they aren't good tour guides with lots of interesting things to say, but if you don't want to and you want to just walk around and soak up the seediness then be firm because they are relentless and they will try everything to talk you round. They were literally accosting us every three steps and couldn't understand why we wanted to waste our time walking around. (It is a long walk to Hollywood and Highland, the main centre of Hollywood activity but if you can afford a couple of hours to soak in some sunshine and sights, then do it. You can't find your favourite stars when you're cruising past in a car. Besides, it's good exercise.)
So, once you've successfully shouted at the fifteenth person to ask you for a tour, you can get on with enjoying the sights, such as the Pentages theatre which was gearing up for The Book of Mormon when we were there; the beautiful Redbury hotel and Capitol Records building (regularly seen in TV and movies but a particular highlight is in The Day After Tomorrow when it's destroyed by a huge tornado.)
Doris. An important star for me: Calamity Jane!
Vine Street: The Redbury and Capitol.
Capitol Records in the scorching sun.
Oh, and just a quick note for those Beatles fans, they each have there very own star on Vine, quite near Capitol Records.
So moving on along the Boulevard, you'll find a host of actually quite random shops, interesting buildings, theatres, museums of the strange and absurd and lingerie shops of the stars. Bizarre but true. There are some very cool memorabilia shops where you can pick up vintage film posters, movie memorabilia, music memorabilia and postcards.
Costume shops gearing up for Halloween.
The Egyptian Theatre.
Beautiful clock dome.
As you reach Hollywood and Highland, with it's Dolby Theatre (home of the Oscars); shopping centre, bars, cafes and night clubs, you know you've found the Hollywood mecca. Here also lie the Chinese Theatre, which was actually gearing up for a premiere, so we couldn't go and check out the hand and footprints outside it. But still, the bit we could see was rather impressive. Also adjacent to the Hollywood and Highland complex is El Capitan, the lavish theatre which functions as the Disney premiere cinema. And eventually, I found Marilyn in the stars and a couple of others that made me laugh.
El Capitan.
Get your Oscars on.
We walked back to the car on the opposite side of the road to take in the sights of the other side, including more random shops, stars and general Hollywoodness. Next stop: Sunset Boulevard for Sunset Strip.
The Chinese Theatre.
Yay, I found her.
He'll be back.
Don't Stop Believing.
Sunset Strip
Sunset Strip is actually only a tiny portion of Sunset Boulevard which stretches for about 25 miles through Downtown, Hollywood, Beverley Hills and Bel Air. The Strip itself is famous for celeb hang outs, mainly of the yester-year, lavish hotels which have probably witnessed a few celeb deaths and giant billboards advertising everything from film to TV to perfume and alcohol. Driving The Strip was the best option for us and if you're short on time I suggest it, because you are likely to be stuck in enough traffic that you can take in a lot of sights from the car, even the driver and unless you're planning on visiting all the bars and clubs on the off chance of seeing a celeb (not on my top list of holiday must dos) then seeing is quite enough. And remember the speed tourist motto (that I just made up) is to want to go back to a place, so you have to give yourself little tastes, enough to leave the desire to return.
The Chateau
Been there!
Just huge!
The Giant billboards are awesome! And really are giant! You will pass The Chateau Marmont famous for hosting lots of celebrities and of course playing host to a fatal overdose. And also the Rainbow Bar and Grill where Marilyn met DiMaggio and Whiskey a Go-Go home to the Doors in the 60's. I missed the Viper room where River Pheonix died outside but it didn't really bother me. At times, it feels like you're pointing out the sights of people's deaths. Again, not on my top list of holiday must dos. But still, a ride along the Strip is essential and it takes you right to our next stop: Beverley Hills.
Beverley Hills
Of course you think 90210. It's impossible not to. Even the youngsters now probably would as they did a whole remake thing. But you can't beat the originals: Brandon, Brenda, Kelly and Dylan. Ahhh, that was Saturday evening television at its 90's best. Iconic sights in Beverley Hills are mainly the massimo houses, gated communities, The Beverley Hills Hotel and Rodeo Drive. We went on a drive through again, stopping off for some amazing up-scale diner food at Kate Mantalini. Yum!
Interesting garden animals.
The Beverley Hills Hotel
A rather large house.
Kate Mantalini
The house speciality: Meatloaf. Yum!
If you are a little peckish in the Beverley Hills area, I do highly recommend Kate Matalini. It's yummy American diner food but in a lovely modern setting and it feels more like a restaurant than a diner. The meatloaf is phenomenal! And despite it's location and it's more up-scale nature, the prices are ridiculously reasonable. Highly, highly recommended.
Now Rodeo Drive is a landmark of luxury and opulence and so we chose to drive it. (We are neither luxurious nor opulent) It was kinda fun too as you could people watch and laugh about the things you could never afford from the comfort of your hire car. It also made me think about Mighty Ducks 2, where they are at The Goodwill Games in LA and they attempt to go shopping on Rodeo drive, though the cowboy kid mistakes it for rodeo drive and takes his lasso. He he. Made me laugh anyway.
Of course, if you have a few extra hours to while away the time, by all means soak up the grandeur and pronounce all the designers with a Northern accent (Bulgari is definitely my favourite). And soak up that relentless Californian sun. Honestly, you'd think it would run out at some point, but it never does.
We even passed The Beverley Hills Hilton where my partner piped up: "Oh, that's where Whitney died." Another glorious landmark for wonderful reasons. Ha ha. That's LA for you. Playground of the rich and famous.
Bel Air and The Getty
Home of UCLA and The Getty Museum, up market Bel Air (not that there's much of a down market around here) is not only famous for its Prince, (quality 90's show) but it's hills and winding lanes and spectacular views right to the sea. We had a few hours left before our red eye and what best to do than take the electric, unmanned train up the hill to The Getty centre, a spectacular feat of architecture as well as a substantial art collection and fantastically sculpted gardens.
Proof I'm in Bel Air
Train stop and Getty on the hill
Entrance
Beauty
Expect amazing views from the many balconies and promenades. Enjoy the call of the outdoors as you stroll through the gardens taking in Calder sculptures and water features; and the tree lined inner courtyard. It's not necessarily the most beautiful building but it's charm arrives in the way it angles and shapes around the landscape surrounding it. It is absolutely huge and would of course take a whole day to do everything, but in the name of speed tourism, we explored a few rooms, took in the gardens and found the best places to view LA and it's environs.
What a spectacular city and a spectacular end to our time there. I hope I've inspired more of you to try speed tourism, or at least to check out the joy of LA. I honestly thought I wouldn't enjoy it as much as other places we had visited. I had this picture in my mind and I'm so glad that has gone now, replaced with unforgettable images and the thirst for more. I will be returning and I will explore further. I have barely begun to scratch the surface of this multi faceted and cultural melting pot of grandiose proportions. Thank you LA.
Oh and a huge thank you for the response to the last Sarky Traveller blog on Universal and Griffith Park.
When I return there will be a little less sun and a bit more storm, as we tackle New England on the East coast. Have a great weekend and if you're travelling, good luck and enjoy!
The Sarky Traveller
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