Cold rice pudding with fresh fruit. Yes I was sceptical too but it was delicious! Juices, coffee and tea were offered and then the final act: Blueberry pancakes made with wild Maine Blueberries and cumin infused bacon.
Wow!Now usually I'm a fruit and meat no no. I find it wrong to mix sweet and savoury but they slipped down very nicely. Really top notch food and lodging I'm just sorry we only had one night there. But in the name of speed tourism you really can't hang around in one place too long, not if you're going to explore as many places as possible and so it was time to see what Camden and the local area had in store for us.
Looking up and down Camden's cute high street. Lots of interesting shops, cafes and restaurants.
I have to mention the amazing shop I visited that I wanted to buy everything in and that was: Once A Tree.
The vast majority of the shop was home ware and gifts made by the talented people of Maine. The staff in there were lovely and as we were their first customers of the day (people staying away due to storm and slightly out of season) they were more than pleased with our many purchases. Not sure if the ladies working there will remember the two random Brits in on that day in late October 2012 but I give you a shout out anyway.
Now look how pretty these stripey chopping boards are. We bought one of the small ones but we use it as a presentation board because we don't want to damage it. Honestly if I was rich I would have bought so much more and then had to buy an additional suitcase to bring it all back in. Delightful shop and truly wonderful Maine people. http://www.onceatree.net/ Check out the website and if you are in the area definitely go in, your wallet will inevitably come out lighter. Oh and it's their 30th Birthday this year, just like mine, so happy 30th Once A Tree!
Some of the shops and businesses were closed, either due to storm warnings, out of season or the earliness at which we rose but Camden has plenty to offer and you can check out more retail opportunities at:
www.camdenmaineexperience.com This site has details of places to stay - if the Hartstone is out of your budget or full - and eat and visit. You may also be interested to know that The Camden Snow Bowl hosted the US Toboggan Championships earlier in the year and in Summer they have a public beach. http://www.camdensnowbowl.com/ For all things hiking, biking, sailing and skiing, check it out whether your trip is in summer or winter. There will always be something happening and they also have public chair lifts. Makes me really want to go back now. You see, speed tourism, always leaving more to go back to.
Once we'd done Main Street we wandered through Harbor Park. This beautiful parkland right on the edge of the Harbour also takes in the place where the Megunticook River meets the sea.
Looking out from Harbor Park over Camden Harbor.
Harbor Park
Where the river meets the sea.
Camden Public LibrarySomething you shouldn't miss when in Camden is Camden Hills State Park with spectacular views (weather depending) from Mount Battie 790ft up. If you have a lot of time then of course walk to the park and then walk up Mount Battie. We took the car and in the end took the car up Mount Battie as the weather was closing in and we weren't really kitted out for an hours hike. It costs around $5 for entrance to the park but I seem to remember there being a discount or something for local residents.
The drive up to Mount Battie.
The War Memorial honouring those that fought in the First World War.
Mount Battie's Peak, hidden beneath the clouds.
Once up at the top, you are treated to spectacular views over down town Camden and that wonderfully rugged Maine coastline.
Just look at that. This is Maine in the fall. Mesmerising.
The park doesn't have it's own website but there are links on the Camden Maine Experience site and also links on http://www.maine.gov/portal/index.html through outdoor recreation.
Winding back down with the car there are various car parks with short trails leading off them. We decided to immerse ourselves in the foliage of New England and to find some of those world renowned autumnal colours. The trails are well laid out and often have wooden decking underfoot in places highly prone to water logging. Look out for interesting fungi.
Sadly that was all we had time for in Camden Hills State Park but next time we'll definitely hike up Mount Battie and maybe with the sun shining? We took the car back through Camden heading South towards Beauchamp Point in Camden's neighbouring town of Rockport. It's a wonderfully scenic drive with all the foliage and ocean views you could possibly want. You'll also pass by the famous Aldermere farm with its Belted Galloway Cows. There are lots of places to pull over and admire and photograph what feels like a hidden place, so quiet and serene, though this can't be guaranteed depending on when you visit. Go at the end of October and you practically have the place to yourself. It's also a great place to drool over houses and as you head up the other side of the peninsula you are treated to views of Rockport Harbor. (I'm really trying with the US spelling. It's hard though.)
Looking towards Rockport
Looking out to sea.
Making friends with the locals.
If you want to find out more about mid coast Maine and some of it's hidden treasures, hear it from a local:
http://treasuresofmidcoastmaine.wordpress.com/2012/10/01/beauchamp-point-rockport-me/ Also lodgings, eateries and businesses in the Rockport area are listed on the visit Maine site:
http://www.visitmaine.com/region/midcoast/camden_rockport_lincolnville/
http://www.visitmaine.com/region/midcoast/camden_rockport_lincolnville/
We managed a short walk around Rockport Harbor and took in the Rockport Lime Kilns before heading back to the car for the next adventure.
Camden and Rockport had such character and beauty, if you have the opportunity to stay here a few days I would take it. Nearby Rockland a few miles South of Rockport is also worth a visit if you have the time. The Maine lighthouse museum, transportation museum and festivals such as the Maine Lobster Festival and The North Atlantic Blues Festival provide a steady stream of tourists here. Of course there are also many light house tours, boat trips and ferries though most, if not all of these had stopped running by the time we were there. Below are just a few sites dedicated to boat tours and exploring the coastline.
http://www.nelights.com/exploring/Maine/maine_rockland_lighthouses.html
http://www.amorninginmaine.com/
http://www.sailrockland.com/
So after the delights of Camden and Rockport, we continued North to Belfast on Route 1. As soon as you take the turning for Downtown Belfast you instantly get the feeling you are in a larger town. Large houses stand up in tree lined streets leading you to the centre. There is a hospital here serving the Waldo County Area, a Municipal Airport and the Sheriff's Department. This charming town was given about a paragraph in the guide book we had and so we didn't really know what to expect. Trust me when I say, I'll be using much more than a paragraph.
On the front of the free map we were given in the first shop we went in - a book shop name Bella Books - it says 'Discover why people say "We love Belfast".' Okay then Belfast show us what you've got. http://www.cityofbelfast.org/
Bella Books on the corner on High Street is a beautiful independent book store full of books in every genre, lots of children's books and antique furniture. It's very quirky and also has a yearly membership which entitles the member to free cookies. I mean, what more could you want from a book store? Really friendly staff, happy to help with directions and suggestions on places to eat in town, as well as of course a wealthy knowledge of the latest books right down to the classics. I was fascinated by all the YA novels with completely different cover art from the British versions. It was really interesting to see and consider why?
I really enjoyed how the antiques were incorporated in the book displays and vice versa. It created a very cosy atmosphere and felt like a well lived in house, where you could just squeeze into an armchair and lose yourself in a book. With places like this in the world I don't know how people would actively choose not to read. I wish I could zap you over to London but then you would never get rid of me. Bella Books rocks!
And here is a link to their facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/bellabooksbelfast
Hmmm, lunch time in Belfast. Where to eat? There are plenty of affordable places to eat spread out along Main and High Streets as well as along the water front. We were kindly recommended Darby's Pub and Restaurant on High Street and who are we to ignore the advice of a local.
Nice wooden booths to sit in and a very homely feel to it. The food is superb and takes in daily specials as well as traditional favourites. Wonderfully fresh fish and sea food are of course a staple of Darby's but don't be put off if you're not a sea food person. There is literally something for everyone. And their dessert list is not only extensive but so difficult to choose from. To check out a sample of the menus visit their website: www.darbysrestaurant.com and they have a gluten free menu available too.
The extensive and almost impossible to choose from, dessert menu. If you weren't a sweet tooth before, you will be.
Darby's also has a fully stocked bar and lots of locally brewed beers. I really love that about New England, they are so into their home brews and local beers. They also have their own soda and soft drinks made locally and we tried one.
Nice to know somewhere else calls it pop! Not just Lancashire, UK.
The staff were lovely and really enjoy making conversation with out-of-towners, which is so refreshing after five years in London, where people fail to communicate on any level really. There was of course a lot of talk of the coming storm but the stoic Maine-sters were less than concerned. They've hunkered down many a time.
After we managed to prise ourselves away from Darby's warmth and deliciousness, we embarked on a little shopping expedition. Sticking to Main Street and High Street - remembering this is speed tourism - we encountered incredibly ornate paraffin lamps, hand made wares from local artists and crafts people, the oldest shoe shop in America, a funky cheese shop and the Northern Lights Gallery.
Of notable mention are:
www.conklinsmainemercantile.com. Beautiful home ware made in the USA. (That's on High Street). The paraffin lamps were mesmerising.
http://www.fiddleheadartisansupply.com/. Art supplies, wool, fabric, books, greetings cards. All in a beautiful space and so colourful. This is the craft shop of the 21st Century.
http://greenstore.com/ Promoting an 'environmentally sustainable lifestyle.'
http://www.colburnshoe.com/. The oldest shoe store in America and darn proud of it. A wide variety of shoes for men, women, children and sport.
www.eatmorecheese.me. What an awesome name for a shop and a quaint little entrance round the back of 33 Main Street. Expect artisan cheeses and the opportunity to sample as well as some cured meats and chocolate.
And finally: http://northernlightsgallery.org/ Every winter the owners of the gallery set sail on their own ship and head further North for an exploration of Inuit art and culture. What they bring back and the photography along the way are sold and promoted in their gallery. A great story and so interesting to be able to talk to them and find out more about their amazing trips. Again lovely people, genuinely interested in where you are from and why you are there. They also have a beautiful husky which you may want to take home with you.
Sadly we were running out of time but I will say there are many other shops and businesses in the surrounding streets of Downtown Belfast and what's more about 90%, maybe more, are independent. Refreshing and comforting to know that life isn't ruled by Starbucks and Wallmart. There is also a three screen cinema: www.colonialtheatre.com and a museum all about Belfast: www.belfastmuseum.org.
It was time for a walk along the water front, a view of the unpronounceable River: Passagassawaukeag and a stroll along it's pedestrian bridge.
A Bridge over high but calm waters.
Still can't say it but there is a handy guide to the pronunciation.
The view over to Marshall Wharf and Town Landing
Heading back towards Downtown Belfast and just enough time to take in some art.
Thank you Belfast. In just a few short hours we have already fallen in love with you. I urge you to stop off at this charming town full of history, crafts and arts, great food, interesting shops and really lovely people. I have discovered why people say, "We love Belfast." Will you?
So with the storm hot on our tails it was back on Route 1, destination Bar Harbor. Though we did take a rather lengthy detour to Castine. There was only one restaurant and a cafe open. It was peeing it down and very windy so we just braved a few photos on the port, bought a cookie and drink from the cafe and headed off again. I think Castine is a cute place but probably even nicer when the weather is better and in season.
The Town Dock, Castine, Maine.
We arrived in Bar Harbor when it was already dark and the wind was really picking up. Graycote Inn was our lodgings for the night and the owners Roger and Pat were very thorough with an induction and welcome. They had a file full of restaurants and places to eat and drink away the storm. Very helpful and informative and only a few minutes walk from Downtown. www.greycoteinn.com
The beautiful interior of the Greycote Inn and our room.
Tucked away on Kennebec Place opposite the cinema, Mama di Matteo provided us with a candle lit meal of epic proportions, value for money and a touch of class. Oh yeah and loads of interesting bread.
Half of it gone. Ooops.
(Imagine actually sleeping on a bed of linguine........)
Mama di Matteo's also had a cheeky little cocktail list and extensive and reasonably priced wines, as well as beer and soft drinks. Great for a romantic meal for two or a meal out with friends. The atmosphere is intimate and welcoming. Highly recommended.
As for our final stop for the night, we headed over the road to Reel Pizza Cinerama. Yes, it's not only a two screen cinema, it's a pizzeria too. They offer take out service but you can also eat in the cinema, create your own and add your own toppings in the actual screen. Winner! http://www.reelpizza.net/index.php The bar /cafe also stock wine, tea, coffee, cake, popcorn, herbal tea, soft drinks and sweeties!
I really miss these local cinemas. They barely exist in Britain anymore and it is so sad. But America seems to cherish them and every time we visit we manage to take in a film for a ridiculously low price and enjoy a comfortable seat, intermission (why is it so exciting to have an intermission?) and a genuinely enjoyable experience. If you're in Bar Harbor you should definitely check out the Reel Pizza Cinerama and you too could be watching from the film from the comfort of your own couch and high table.
So, if you haven't got the gist of this blog I'll spell it out very clearly. Maine is brilliant! You should go!
There. I think that's about right. Stay tuned for more Maine, New Hampshire, wild waves, fallen trees and all year round Christmas.
Keep Travelling.
The Sarky Traveller
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