The Sarky Traveller: Chicago Day 2: Riverwalk, Navy Pier, Sky High Cocktails and Deep Pan

Hello, hello, fellow travellers. And welcome to the second day in Chicago, part of the Sarky Traveller's Midwest adventure. So, it's your second day in the City, you've already got a feel for the place, you've explored The Loop, rode the El Train and sampled the Hotdogs. So now it's time to walk the river, stroll the Magnificent Mile and take in a deep dish pizza.

If using the El trains to transport in, you can get off at Washington/Wells and walk north a couple of blocks, or you can actually get off at Merchandise Mart stop, depending on which line you're on. (Be careful of the loop, remember, it only goes one way).

We got off at Washington Wells and headed on up four blocks to the Chicago River where you can cross one of the many beautiful bridges and commence the Riverwalk. We chose to start at Merchandise Mart, a huge building taking up two city blocks. You can't miss it, it's humongous.

Due to a lot of bridge and road works at the time we were there, we had to do a lot of zigzagging from one side of the river to the other, via bridges, roads and the coastal path, but along the way you will see more architectural gems, and if you're lucky enough you might have sunshine all the way to the lake. If you prefer not to walk it, there are plenty of boat trips to give you a tour along the river. As mentioned last time, CAF - Chicago Architecture Foundation - have plenty of tours on offer: http://www.architecture.org/, but here are a few other options:
https://www.wendellaboats.com/ and http://shorelinesightseeing.com/. There is even a comparison site, so you can figure out the best option for you: http://www.chicagotraveler.com/boat_tours.htm.

The Sarky Traveller does love a good walk though, and this is the easiest type really, you can't go wrong, just follow the river.

Marina City

Precariously parked cars.

River living: Parking at the bottom, a gym in the middle and apartments at the top, each with a roomy balcony overlooking the Chicago River. Wow. If that's not city living, I don't know what is.

The Riverwalk is as much about the general wow factor as it is about the architecture. Some of the angles at which you capture the view, and the way the light bounces off the various building materials and windows, just add to this beautiful walk. And it doesn't take up too much of your time, but gives you a very different perspective of the city. I urge everyone to do it. (But do some neck stretches before you go, you'll be looking up, a lot.)

The Trump Tower.

Nice angle, incorporating the John Hancock Centre to the left, Trump Tower and The Wrigley Building in the centre.

Around Trump Tower you enter a lovely paved River Esplanade which leads you to Wrigley Building - yes the makers of the chewing gum - my favourite building. (I just love a clock tower.) It also leads you away from the river, slightly, to The Chicago Tribune Building, where you have to have a look around the exterior and inside the lobby. Bits of buildings and famous sites from around the world have been incorporated into the walls, including a bit of the Berlin Wall, a twisted nugget of the Twin Towers and lots lots more. Look up, look down, look all around, or you might miss something.

A nice panorama including Trump, Wrigley and the Tribune.

You are now at the beginning of the Magnificent Mile, so you could obviously detour here and go for a luxury shop, but we wanted to make it as close to lakeside as we could, so we continued to follow the esplanade as far as we could go, passing the Sheraton Hotel, the Centennial Fountain and the site of the Chicago Spire, the building which never happened.

The Sarky Traveller enjoying the sunshine and the spray from Centennial Fountain.

Once you reach the end of the esplanade, you loop around East North Water Street, and if you're there in autumn, the fall wreaths and decorations are particularly beautiful, as are the houses. Nice.

Then there are some signs pointing to Navy Pier, as you are not very far away now, but if you get lost just head a couple of blocks north and east and you should hit the pier.

Flanked by a rather large park and with the Ohio Street Beach, Navy Pier has a little bit of everything. I think this is a premier destination for those with kids, as it houses the Chicago Children's museum, a fun fair with a huge Ferris wheel visible from far and wide, and also lots of souvenir shops and tacky gifts and sweet, and delicious yet naughty things to eat.

Check out seasonal events and attractions here: https://navypier.com/.

And if travelling with kids, I'm sure a few hours in the Chicago Children's Museum would go down well: http://www.chicagochildrensmuseum.org/.

But, it is a pier. I would imagine you've all been to one before. There are boats, you get a great view on the lake and looking back to the city, but it isn't the most exciting place you'll visit. There is a little stained glass museum which is cute and free, and will take just a few minutes of your time, so if you like that sort of thing then go for it. We did. There was a lot of works going on when we were there, so we were taken on the red carpet tour of the underbelly of Navy Pier. I'm sure it's a bit nicer when the works aren't on. But it is definitely worth a look and a walk around, especially after doing a nice tour of the river. And the views are spectacular.

Looking out over the lake and you really do feel like you're overlooking the ocean.

Low lying cloud chopping the buildings in half.

This led us to lunch time, and if you don't want to eat at one of the pier establishments, of which there are plenty, then you are about a half hour walk away from the Magnificent Mile and lots of eateries around there. If you can't wait that long, however, there isn't a great deal of choice in the area between Navy Pier and the Magnificent Mile, but there is the charming: Yolk on East Ohio Street (on the corner with Mc Clurg), serving monstrous breakfasts, omelettes, salads and more. Expect large portions, so take your appetite with you. We went in for a healthy salad. Ha ha. We got enough food to last for two days at least. But completely yummy. You will probably have to wait for a table, but they are pretty swift at getting people in and out, yet not feeling like they are rushing you. We sat at the bar and got to watch things being made, and see how it all worked. Cheery, controlled chaos, I think it could best be described as. http://eatyolk.com/

After all that food we needed another walk to aid the digestion, and where best to head but the Magnificent Mile, Chicago's upscale shopping street. If you came here to shop, prepare to unload your wallets.

It's fine for a nice walk, but unless you have money to burn, you probably won't be taking too many purchases home with you. It is home to big brands, big department stores and also the Apple store and various home styling stores. We enjoyed Crate and Barrel, a home store exclusive to the US, and we loved it. Lots of affordable things, and of course lots of unaffordable things, but they had a vast array of fall decorations and Halloween stuff. Very much my favourite store on the mile. http://www.crateandbarrel.com/ Oh no, I just remembered they ship to the UK. Danger. Danger!

Chicago Water Tower.

John Hancock Centre.

Once you reach the end of the magnificent mile, you pass into the area known as Gold Coast, boasting such gems as the Chicago Water Tower and the John Hancock Centre. http://www.360chicago.com/. There is also a big mall at Water Tower Place, in front of John Hancock, where if you've ever wanted to see American Girl Place with all the creepy dolls and accessories and craziness, you can pop in and realise that it is real and not just a hilarious episode of Modern Family. You won't last long in there though. Jeez. It's terrifying.

We breezed past John Hancock and chose to enjoy the sunshine to the fullest. We took the 151 bus to Lincoln Park Zoo, which is further north in the Lincoln Park area, to explore their free - yes free! - zoo and conservatory. (If you google Lincoln Park, third on the list is Linkin Park. Made me laugh.) You can find out more about the zoo here: http://www.lpzoo.org/

The park is huge; very long and thin and runs along the lake side, with a zoo and conservatory and farm, all free to get into, and various ponds and parkland to explore. Michigan Avenue runs into Lake Shore Drive, which follows the coast all the way up. There are beaches dotted along the lakeside and certainly lots to see and do. And it's all free. Definitely a great place to spend a sunny afternoon.

Lazy Lion.

The conservatory

Lots of green things.

The Orchid and Fern rooms are particularly interesting. Check it out.

Our next stop was the AMC River East 21, as I had a hankering to see the first Maze Runner film. Also there is a Bowling Alley, so if you want a night of bowling, eating and watching, this is just off Michigan Avenue and also not too far from the very famous Pizzeria Uno, where the first Chicago deep pan was born. Oh my, it's good. http://www.unos.com/

The only photo I have of Pizzeria Uno and it's blurred. I was crossing the road at the time.

A small sausage deep pan. There is nothing small about it. Hmmmmm sausage.

So, with deep pan, there is a whole saga to it. We're not talking pizza hut, whipped up in ten minutes from frozen dough, we're talking a forty five minute wait for your pizza. (Well worth your wait, by the way!) So you order it first and they have a little seating area at the front. Then they get your table ready and after about ten/fifteen minutes bring you in. Then they bring you your drinks and offer you snacks and starters. Don't do it. I'm just saying, unless you have the appetite of the Hulk - I'm presuming he has a mighty one when he's green - then don't get snacks or starters. You'll only be disappointed if you can't finish your pizza, or you can't do it justice.

We ordered a small between two, as that's what was suggested. My partner was sceptical and wanted to order a medium but I talked him down, and I'm glad I did, because a small is more than enough for two. So much pizza. It's so deep and there's so much topping. Oh god, it's so good, I'm getting hungry just writing about it. It's definitely a staple of Chicagoan life. So do it! And be merrily stuffed!

Our final digestive walk of the day took us back to the John Hancock Centre for a high rise cocktail at The Signature Room on the 95th Floor. We also got to enjoy all the beautiful buildings lit up along the way.

Yay. Lit up clock tower.

Have IDs with you, and remember you have to be 21 to drink in the US, and they are diligent at checking IDs. You will undoubtedly have to wait for a table, and even longer if you want a window seat. We waited half an hour and then gave up wanting a window seat, it's not like you can't get up and have a wander around anyway. So we took our table, grabbed a drink - though we could barely fit much in after that pizza - and watched life from the 95th floor. Definitely worth a night time visit, but it also has an observation deck and this terrifying tilt thing that happens during the day, so if you prefer your high rise in the day light, John Hancock has it all.