Friday, January 8, 2016

Chicago Day 3: Sky Deck, Pilsen, Neighbourhoods and Vintage Bowling.

Happy New Year travellers. I hope you had a pleasant Christmas break and are looking forward to a new year of adventures around the world. But if Chicago is an option for you then let me help to convince you it is the right destination.

Here we are on Day 3 of The Sarky Traveller's adventures in the windy city. And it begins with an early high rise up the Willis Tower - formally known as the Sears Tower - a landmark of Chicagoan skyline and architecture.

 A hazy morning, but an amazing view from 103 floors up. 

The Sky Ledge. Walk out, if you dare, into what is essentially, a glass box fixed onto the side of a building at 103 floors up. Ahhhhhhhh. I'm not exactly great with heights, or well, I am but not when I have to look down from that height to the floor and possible death. So on first pass around the Sky Deck, I declined the Ledge and left that to my slightly more adventurous partner.

But, on second time around........
Yes, those are my feet on the Sky Ledge. What you can't see are my closed eyes. But I did it.

Tips for visiting Willis Tower:

  • Go in the morning, if possible, as early as you can to opening.
  • Avoid weekends and afternoons. They are likely to be heaving. 
  • Obviously, try for a clear day, but the hazy atmosphere definitely added something to it. I wouldn't advise going on a crazy cloudy day.  
  • Go after you have had a day or so in the City, because then you can orientate yourself and you understand the layout of the City much better. You recognise the buildings you've already visited and can plan your next excursion. 
http://theskydeck.com/ Visit the website for more information on tickets and times. You can buy tickets online before you go and show them on your mobile device or print them out. There is a nice shop up there and a cafe, and of course lots of facts and stats about the building. 

So, today was to be our exploration of various neighbourhoods, starting with the wonderfully colourful Mexican district: Pilsen. 

 18th street is the stop for Pilsen on the Pink Line of the El Train. Or if you're using the Metra trains, you can get off at Halsted Street Station. 
 I loved the colour and the murals at the Station that just announced where you were. Colour and pride and culture and joy were all waiting for you at Pilsen. 
Sadly, I became completely lost in days, because I'm on holiday and so the names of the days just fade into insignificance and all become a day I don't have to go to work, followed by another day I don't have to go to work, I failed to heed the warning that things were shut on Mondays, that the guide so kindly pointed out to me. Damn it. 

Main tip for Pilsen: Don't go on a Monday if you actually want to buy something and visit the Mexican Art Museum, which of course, we did. Urgh. But that didn't stop us wandering the streets, getting a feel for the neighbourhood, having a stroll in Harrison Park, finding some incredible murals and finding a delicious spot for lunch. 

 Increibles las Cosas que Se Ven mural at W 19th Street and S Ashland Avenue.
 A beautiful, political and very humanistic mural even including the telegraph pole. Such detail.
 I love this Red Riding Hood mural on the Pl-zen bar. Totally cool. http://pl-zen.com/
And this was another wonderful creation. Why have just a door when you can have an entrance?

Now, this is definitely the neighbourhood to come and sample some food and drink delights. Because, really, who doesn't love Mexican food? I found this article on Saveur which details a dozen top places to eat and drink in Pilsen, which might be useful. But also, just walking around and reading the menus and peeping in at the hole in the walls and tiny cafes will have you salivating and probably unable to make a decision: http://www.saveur.com/article/travels/travel-guide-pilsen-chicago

I think we used Trip Advisor to find a place with good reviews, but also a place that was frequented by locals. We like to avoid the more touristy destinations if possible and go where the people in the know go. And so we ended up at Nuevo Leon - incidentally the first on the Saveur link above - and wow, oh wow, just take your appetite with you. You are about to be fed enough for at least two meals, for so reasonable a price and you are going to love it! Though you may need to walk it off later. 
 Oh yes, oh yes. Tamales, rice, refried beans - some of the best we'd ever tasted! - and a pork dish with flour tortillas. They also bring you customary extras such as chips and dip and tortilla and chilli stuff. So you're stuffed before you've started. But it is so worth it. Absolutely delicious! And all for around $15 for two of you.
Nuevo Leon, colourful on the outside and the inside. 

We then headed back into the Loop for our tour of the Chicago Theatre. There was only seven of us on the tour, and we had a wonderful guide named Harrison. I won't give too much away as you'll probably want to see and hear it for yourself, but I will say it is completely worth it for the Signed Walls and being on the stage. 

The Entrance. 

 In the auditorium. 
A small segment of the many signed walls backstage. 

Then we set off to the El Train and took the red line to Addison to explore the neighbourhood of Wrigleyville, home to Wrigley Field and the Chicago Cubs Baseball team. Of course, they were out of season so catching a game was out of the question, but getting a glimpse of their hand turned scoreboard and having a wander along to Alta Vista Terrace and the leafy suburbs was a great way to spend a very warm September afternoon. 

 Over a hundred years old, Wrigley Field is famous for its hand turned scoreboard. 
 All the buildings around the field have additional seating perched on their roofs, so people can pay to go in their bar or restaurant and presumably pay extra to sit up top and perch over the field to watch the game. 
Alta Vista Terrace: Chicago's first Historic District, full of leafy suburbs and impressive brick houses. Nice for a stroll but there's not much happening out of the Baseball season, so best to jump back on the El train and go find a place for a cool refreshment. 

One stop to Belmont, to save your legs, and you arrive at a great shopping, eating and entertainment enclave, as well as being only a short walk away from Boystown. 
                                           
 Belmont Metro Station. 
                                    
 Forever Yoghurt, Belmont, when you need a sit down and some frozen yoghurt goodness, it is certainly convenient. You choose from twenty flavours, loads of toppings and fruit, and it is done by weight, so be careful, it's easy to overdo it. But this was exactly what we needed at exactly the right time.

Shopping around Belmont Avenue and Clark Street gave us a lot of look at. Vintage stores, costume shops, Army surplus stores, little boutiques and book shops. And I just happened to buy the most beautiful bag ever at the Army Surplus Store, with a toadstool on it. Yay! 


We then had a wander through Boystown, the Gay district, and what an interesting walk. There is a Gay Heritage Walking Trail. It's full of cool bars and restaurants. There are sculptures and flowers and greenery on every corner, and it is immaculately maintained. 



After going back to our accommodation for a rest, we planned the night's escapades. Because when in Chicago, if you don't go vintage bowling, then you're missing out. With a few to choose from over the City, we stuck on Southport Lanes, which was not too far where we'd been earlier. We exited at Southport on the Brown Line. Turns out Mondays around there are pretty quiet, but we had already booked our lane in advance, due to there only being four lanes, and what we weren't expecting was the incredible food, beer and hospitality too. This is no chain ten pin bowling, this is old school, add up your own scores and have your own 'pin boy' bowling. Oh yes!


 A basket of fries that could have fed eight people. Or two, as it did. A-ma-zing! We did have ribs as well, but they weren't quite as impressive as the fries.
Southport Vintage Bowling Lanes. 
 Mmmm, a nice local Cider. 
 Fries and Ribs. 
I won both games. Whoop!

Many thanks to our 'pin boy' who kept the pins coming and always shouted thank you for his tip. 
A great experience for anyone who likes to bowl. Southport Lanes also has live sports showing in the bar area and there are games and pool tables and ping pong. If you're in the area, pop along for a night of fun and food, but book ahead if you want to bowl. http://southportlanes.com/

What another amazing, but slightly tiring day exploring the different neighbourhoods of the City. In the next blog, we'll be charting our last full day in Chicago, with a slight change in weather, and we'll be searching for the best pie we've ever eaten. Oh my. I love pie. 

Thanks for reading. 

The Sarky Traveller

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